Monthly Archives: April 2010

I'm going to show you how to make a homemade wall o water!

What you’ll need:

• 1. Tomato Cage
• 2. Clear heavy duty plastic trash bag
• 3. Sealer – A vacuum sealer with the heat sealing selection will work, or even one of those old seal a meal sealers.

Estimate Height

Then turn your plastic bag, one third of the way inside out or to the mark you made.

Take your heat sealer and make vertical seals, from the fold toward the bottom and opening of the bag, about every 2-4 inches. There is no art to this, so just make them fairly even all the way around the bag.

Sealed and Inverted bag

Just to make it look a little more neat, I also sealed and removed the bag corners. This isn't necessary, but it looks a bit nicer.

Corners Burned off With Sealer

Invert your tomato cage and place (upside down) over the space you are trying to heat the soil in. Note: If placing over plants, be sure to stake down the tomato cage so it won’t tip in the wind and possibly break off your tender transplant.

Once the tomato cage is in place, take the bag and with the folded side down, drape it over the inverted tomato cage. What you will be doing is creating a small greenhouse over your soil area. Take the plastic all the way down to the ground. This will cause the spike ends of the tomato cage to poke through the closed end of the plastic bag. It will also keep the plastic bag from slipping down toward the ground. Be sure to tear open the area between the wire posts. This will create a vent to allow excess heat out and not bake your transplants. Once the bag is covering the tomato cage, begin filling the sealed portion with water. When the sun shines on it in the daylight hours, it will heat up and will keep from freezing during the night and will hold the heat in.

Filled Water Wall

How to propagate your tomatoes with Cuttings….

There are several methods of rooting tomato cuttings and some work better than others. Personally, I find the propagation box method the easiest, most successful and once you have it set up, you can utilize it throughout the season for cuttings of all sorts of plants. I have also found that the propagation box works the most quickly.

Because several methods work, I’ll explain how to do all three methods and you can either test them all or choose which ever method you’d like to try.

Keep in mind that you’ll want to use indeterminate types of tomatoes and not determinate. If you take cuttings from determinate varieties, it will lower the production of tomatoes. So only try this with indeterminate varieties.

For each method, I tend to advocate taking lower branches and here is why. Because of the tomato root system, I like to take all lower branches off the tomato plant, when I transplant it. This serves two purposes; 1. It enables me to plant the stem deeper in the ground thus creating a healthier root system and 2. It enables me to keep space between the ground and the vegetation of the plant, ensuring leaves and moisture won’t be trapped under the plant and begin rotting underneath. It also helps when placing mulch beneath the plants to help them retain water in the root system, due to the extra space between the ground and the leaves. And lastly, my yummy tomatoes won’t be lying on the ground when they ripen.

When taking tops from any branch, it tends to force the energy back down into the tomato plant, thus making a bushier plant. Now as you can see from the picture, there are branches that will grow between main branches and the stem.

Tomato branch sucker

Much like suckers, they will continue to come out between each branch and the stem. Tops can be taken from these, or you can even take top cuttings from the main branches, just remember that it will slow the growth in height and will form a bushier plant.

What you’ll need….

Method 1: Propagation box –

• 1. 1 large tomato plant – Either one wintered over or buy 1 large plant that you would like more than 1 of in early Spring.
• 2. Propagation Box – Simple designed one will work fine.
1. a. Clear Plastic Box with lid
1. b. Non coated terra cotta pot
1. c. Cork or Silicone
1. d. Peat Sphagnum
1. e. Vermiculite
1. f. Perlite
• 3. Pencil

OR

Method 2: Water and Vase

• 1. 1 Large Tomato plant
• 2. 2-3 small cuttings of Willow. This can be weeping willow, corkscrew willow, plain lake or riverside wild willow, even pussy willow.
• 3. Vase or Jar

OR

Method 3: Direct Sow into soil

• 1. 1 Large Tomato plant
• 2. 4” Pot
• 3. Good, rich, organic potting soil

AND

• 4. Scissors or very sharp clippers

Method 1: Propagation Box-
Get your propagation box ready:
Plug the hole of the terra cotta pot with silicone or a cork, or both. Place the pot in the center bottom of the plastic box. Fill the pot with water.

Place a 3-4 inch layer of Sphagnum mixed at a 3:1 ratio with vermiculite, around the pot and level over entire bottom, surrounding the pot. Cover with a layer of Perlite about 1-2 inches thick.

Clipping the branch off

Clip a branch from the large tomato plant, strip all but the top 2-3 leaves and keep the stem as long as possible. Be sure to also remove all buds from the cutting. Using a pencil, push a hole into the perlite, down through the sphagnum mix and to the bottom of the box. Carefully place the cutting into the hole and gently firm the perlite and sphagnum mixture around it. Cover with the lid and place in a warm shaded area. I use the underneath section of my table in my greenhouse.

Cutting in rooting mix

After 2-4 weeks, you will be able to see roots forming on the cuttings. The cuttings can then be transplanted into your pots with organic potting soil and you’ll have additional plants or clones of the same exact variety, whether hybrids or heirlooms. Be sure to fertilize your tomato plants. An immediate watering with fish emulsion will give it a nice boost. I also like to add a bit of compost or composted/aged horse manure to the organic soil.

Method 2: Water and Vase

Clip a 6-8 inch branch from the large tomato plant. Strip all but the top 2-3 leaves and keep the stem as long as possible. Be sure to remove all buds from the cutting.

Take the vase or jar and fill about half way with water. Place the cuttings into the water and fill to about 2 inches below the leaves.

Take a cutting or two from a willow tree – any type will do. Place these cuttings in with the tomato cuttings. Willow contains a natural rooting hormone and will distribute this hormone in the water, thus aiding in the rooting of any cuttings placed in with it.

After 2-4 weeks, you will be able to see roots forming on the cuttings. The cuttings can then be transplanted into your pots with organic potting soil and you’ll have additional plants or clones of the same exact variety, whether hybrids or heirlooms. Be sure to fertilize your tomato plants. An immediate watering with fish emulsion will give it a nice boost. I also like to add a bit of compost or composted/aged horse manure to the organic soil.

Method 3: Direct Sow in Pot-

This one is quite simple, but I do recommend you do several extra cuttings, just in case some don’t take. I have actually taken the lower branches from my transplanted tomatoes and simply placed them in the ground to promote more tomato plants. Some take, some don’t.

Clip about a 6-8 inch branch from your tomato plant. Strip all leaves off except the top 2-3 and be sure to remove any buds from the cutting. Fill a 4 inch pot with organic soil and with a pencil, push a hole down to the bottom of the pot. Insert the cutting down into the hole and gently firm the soil around the stem.

Water the cutting well and keep it moist. Misting is a great way to aid root growth in the first few weeks. You’ll be able to see if the plants wilt or not, after a few days. If they don’t wilt, this will most likely mean they’ve taken successfully. When you start seeing new growth on your cuttings, you can transplant them into the garden.

This is a wonderful way to increase your tomato garden without the expense of buying tons of starts from the nursery. Also, if you see an interesting variety of tomato growing in someone else’s garden, this method can enable the cloning or multiplying of that plant to your garden. Simply get permission from the garden owner and snip a couple of branches. Just keep them moist between that time and when you place them in any method mentioned.

Okay, this post is actually meant for anyone who is itching to get digging in that soil to taste those precious treasures out of the garden. It's fast becoming that time to get out and 'til the soil! So I have to recommend an easy to read guide to help you get started right away. While I have many methods and ideas to get you started, they take time to put together and we don't have much time depending on when your last frost date is, so this instant download will help you get a quick start.

Organic Garden is great for the beginner and will help you grow your own healthy vegetables to feed your family and lower your grocery bill. This download is a wonderful easy to understand, step by step method to get the beginner going quickly. Experience is great, but when you have none, you need to start somewhere.

Keep watching, 'cause I'm also going to share my cuttings methods this Fall, so you can actually keep those precious plants going year 'round. And if you've been reading these posts, you'll see I have quite the jump on the season with my wintered over cuttings. Our typical first ripe tomato isn't until late August or early Steptember. Well I'm looking at my first tomato coming around June 1. And that's on a late variety. It could be earlier with my Buckbees 50 Day that I wintered over. Pics will come soon, cause it needs transplanting and I'll post when it has new growth from there.

It's time to get out and dig...so Happy gardening I'll be back soon!

My last post on my wintered over Tomato cuttings was March 11th. So I thought I would give you an update on how they are doing. My Cherokee Chocolate is blossoming and about ready to spring into tomato heaven. By that I mean that there may be tomato babies on the plant shortly. The heaven is for me when I can harvest and enjoy that amazing tomato.

Cherokee Chocolate 2009 Fall Cutting

Well I’ve been awaiting more growth, but I have to share how my tomato babies are doing. After transplanting over 300 plants....and planting over 270 varieties, my babies are finally coming along.

1st Transplanted Tomato Seedlings

As you can see, there are a number of true leaves…and they will be ready for transplanting shortly after our last frost date of April 15th. I tend to like to wait a few more weeks, due to the possibility of a crazy late frost or heaven forbid SNOW….yes we’ve actually had SNOW in the beginning of May before.

So I’ll be getting the soil ready for a late April/early May transplant. As I said previously, I will show you a little trick that helps to extend the growing season by a good two months. Can you imagine an extra 60 days of growing? As I do the trick, I’ll post each step of it. I’ll give you this extra tip…it works for ALL warm soil direct sow seeds as well, including winter squash, beans and more.